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Caring about your books and paper Page 2 of 2 | ||||
Use Mylar, it's chemically inert and won't damage your books in any way. Avoid the non-archive safe vinyl.
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Some of you are now asking the question of: "What is the difference between vinyl and Mylar?" I'm not a chemist, so I don't know the chemical formulas, but the main difference is this; vinyl sticks to photocopies, and vinyl emits a gas and an oil. Mylar is inert and what they make 'photocopy safe' plastics out of. This is often called Polyester, and can have 'archival safe' on the label. There is also a third type of plastic that is hard. The Polystyrene page protectors that I have in my office usually fall into this category. If you are in your local office supply shop, read the labels and look for Mylar or polyester and avoid vinyl. I usually purchase page protectors that are also labeled 'archival' to store those single sheet posters or letters from Andre. I use either a supplier for antiques, or a catalog supplier for my Mylar bags, and always get my dust jacket protectors through a catalog.
Don't store your books with newsprint items. Newsprint, or the paper that is usually used for newspapers, yellows very quickly. I always protect my other paper items from contact with newsprint. I also protect my collection against photocopies, which can also come off on other items. Some of the oldest paper backs were printed on a paper not to far removed from news-print. There are some things you can do to protect these and my best suggestion is to use the Mylar bag. Any other solution becomes cumbersome and may possibly damage your item. |
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If a book is in a pretty-good condition do not repair it. Repairing an old book might decrease it's value!
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Another rule of thumb is that if a book is in pretty good condition, don't repair it. In many cases the use of non-archival products to repair a book will only make it worse. Then again, I'd rather own a book where the end paper has torn - separated, than a book where the end paper has been mended. I have purchased archival mending tape & glue, but have not gotten brave enough to use them. If you have a fragile edition of a book, or a book that cost you more than you want to admit. There are several ways to box your book. There are professional custom made clam shell boxes, which will cost in the $50 to $100 range, but look great on the shelf. There are also generic clam shell boxes that are approximately the size of your book, these will be $5 to $50. There is a very inexpensive alternative. You can wrap your book in archival folders. These look like the paper that file folders are made of, but are pre-scored with lines to make it easier to fold. These can be ordered from the catalogue companies and come with directions. But these are not pretty, and don't have add any support to the book. Speaking of boxes. I usually put a piece of white ribbon inside a boxed edition of a book. The ribbon wraps around the middle of the book and makes pulling the book out of a box much easier. This is especially needed when I've put a protector on the book jacket, and the book fits tightly. |
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Use dust jacket protectors - they'll prevent the so-common tears and prevent the jacket from getting dirty.
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The most common torn item of a book is the dust jacket. I suggest getting a good dust jacket protector. Carefully place the torn jacket inside, and fold the protector neatly around it. With any luck the tear won't be noticeable, and you won't have changed the condition of the book. I purchased a copy of Ralestone Luck where the dust jacket looked in good condition. Several years later I was replacing the dust jacket protector with an archival one - and found that the dust jacket was in 5 separate pieces, but this was not noticeable through the jacket protector. Here are some listings of books to read & places to order items: My favorite for dust jacket protectors
Catalog contains several styles of Dust jacket Protectors standard and archival in many sizes. I prefer the long length, and get a range of heights, 9-10-11 inches, so I'm not folding over more than one inch. The prices for these are around $5 for 25 of any one size. I also get their Document Preservation binders for my large flat stuff, like posters and sheet music. These are Gray Press board with acid free folders inside. Another catalog house, that I don't use as often is
They carry archival book binding supplies as well as boxes, Mylar envelopes and dust jacket protectors. The jacket protectors are priced, in my 1994 catalog in groups of 125 covers for $24 and up. My favorite for archival supplies; including that 'do it yourself' clam shell and Rare Book Storage Binder.
These are the best for Rare Book storage Binders, which are pre-scored pieces of acid free board that you cut to the exact size and then wrap around your books. These can be customized, but measure your books first. Unfortunately these don't stand on end well, so are best for unbound documents. They also sell different clam shell boxes, and other style boxes that will look nice on your shelves. These run between $6 and $9 for generic sizes. They also sell everything anyone would ever need to bind your own books, or to mend what you have. They sell humidity, and insect detectors, and the supplies for moisture removal. They also sell a buffering solution in several grades, and as a spray. There are archival 'hints' scattered throughout the catalog, and several free instruction pamphlets can be ordered, as well as books on the care of your books. My favorite book on this subject, even though there is only one short chapter on books, is
This book can be ordered through University Products (item 13-1000) |
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